Magasin’s pop-up newsletter-within-a-newsletter, where we go on the ground to suss out hot shopping gossip from scenes of interest: New York Fashion Week, Day 6.
12p ** Fforme** show — I’m a fan of the brand, have been attending since the first runway (Paul Helbers era), and wore my own Fforme to the show. It was difficult while watching the procession yesterday, and still is, to grab onto even a piece with any relationship to that original promise of the “strong woman.” I’m not in the business of panning, but what I saw was eerily unrecognizable, and it was sad to witness a dovetail into sameness. -
1:30p ** Colleen Allen** presentation — more so than a lot of shows and presentations, which can be like watching a brand upload files to the cloud, my Colleen appointment always feels like, “so what did you make for
Fforme Silke Halterneck Apron Dress, $874 ~~$3,495~~ / Extreme Cashmere n°452 rock T-Shirt, $475 / COS Riviera Hand-Woven Tote Bag, $169 / Polo Sport Oval Sunglasses, $160
On Emily Bonita:
I ran into who wore the
large-format pythonJudebag—wow. I think it’s the sleeper hit bag of the moment: I wore mysuede evening versionto Nordstrom’s cocktail at Marcel earlier this week, where VP of fashion Brooke Bobb asked to take its picture, and I saw it insuede XLinTotemeSoho’s VIP room, slung on the back of a very chic woman’s chair (I was there for an appointment, regret not asking who it was). The brand launched the bags very slyly a few months ago, and yet it’s already found its way onto “the right people.”The
Eckhaus LattaxJ.Crewcollaborationthat walked the runway on Friday (and threw a house party) launches online today. Everything is under $500 but most things are under $300. My guesses on the first to go: thestriped mohair mini vest, thebarn jacket, thechinos.Something I’m chewing on: A pre-order email for the just-shown
collection hit my inbox yesterday, which proved enlightening on the pricing front. Runway has always been premium, but it certainly feels like numbers are ticking up. $4,000 and $5,000 dresses, $6,000 coats, $2,000 scarves. I don’t want to seem unfairly critical, there are also $400 knits tops, $600 heels, and $250 sunglasses that I will be ordering. The thing that strikes me is how much is listed as made-to-order and won’t be hitting stores ever.Tory Burch
This is part of a bigger pattern that’s shown up throughout the week—’s private client business model that largely skips over the everyday shopper and serves the bride or the “money is no object” woman who buys customs in multiples. The bleachers atMel Usine’s show were stacked with VICs, and the seats atTibiwere “at least 50% investors and their families” as one person put it to me. The word is that each look that went down the Khaite runway totalsKhaiteat least$50,000 between apparel and accessories. And one influencer who attended said she was almost certainly there “for how much she spends” at the brand, and not because of her social channels. How many of those clothes will actually make it to the store?
We talk a lot about the affordability crisis, which is very real, but we’re also heading into an access crisis, one where brands bypass their own windows, sites, and third-party sellers and go direct to their top spenders. The widening wealth gap is pushing brands to charge more, privately, to the point where, in order to buy something, you have to have the moneyandthe right connections. Bigdeath of retailupon us.
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