Checking my intel channels after a fashion month spent on the ground, doing real-world reporting, I was a little jolted by what the retail machine had been up to and how little of it actually broke through. Over the course of a couple weeks, the…what we call “mall brands” but actually, they’re more like the impulse-buy brands we’d shop deskbound at 4pm on a Wednesday as Aquaphor for corporate ennui…have been raining down a hailstorm of packaged launches to varying degrees of attention-achieving.
** Gap**, in October alone, released a
** J.Crew**, similarly busybodying the collab scene, released a
All of this, again, just in October. As far as what seeped through organically, I’d have to say almost none of it. Probably just Alexa Chung, which is why she’s still earning her ostensibly hefty fee for this kind of thing, decades post-Cobrasnake.
Why now? Why drop an un-graspable volume of product designed to attract news coverage and eyeballs when those resources are trained on the Chanel runway? But this is the game for mass fashion brands, whose approach to product is like an influencer chasing a mercurial algorithm, where the flops don’t matter, only the hits do. A bit queasy of an idea when the spray of target-missing material is actual physical stuff we need to deal with. Something to chew on.
News only below in today’s send, as I’ve been saying, it’s been a busy run.
In contrast with everything that announced itself over fashion month,
(which exists semi-outside of “the calendar”) recently uploaded without much fanfare some of the most beautiful and wantable pieces I encountered all season. The brand, from designer Bailey Hunter, has been around for almost 15 years now, doing amazing things with traditional regional textiles and hand-embellishments through NGOs and artisan co-ops. It’s not the first time I’ve written about Tigra Tigra (Bailey has evenTigra Tigracontributed), but just seeing itslatest arrivals, I’m struck by how much every other brand is now catching up toit. Thisglass-beaded shoulder-pad dresscould have come fromValentinoorCeline. Abrocade jacketandskirt ensemblethat looks like the most updated self-image ofThe Row. Thislittle jacket…Dries. That it’s none of those things makes it better, more humble, more of a choice you make than something handed to you.The
Tory Burchfall runway collectionis mostly live, including thecordsthat everyone stopped to gawk at. It’s a bit exasperating that thewoven beltI also found great and purchase-worthy is $450, but as a consolation, thebigger fish pinis $180. I’ll be the first in line when thesevelvety, pearly pumpsclick over from ‘Coming Soon.’The headline from the
latestPhoebe Philodropis the arrival of theSplay Clutch, a leather folio-style envelope with a slim wraparound leather tie. I’ve been spending a lot of time carrying myHunting Seasonfolio clutchand foresee the rise of bookish bags like these (also: messenger bags and backpacks). The other thing to pull out of the Phoebe arrivals is, doesn’t thissilk scarf toplook a lot likethisAflaloonereleased a few weeks back? (A little over half the price.)The first fluffy coats pf the season are arriving—
Charlotte Simone’s first winter dropis already mostly sold out (I acted early and got thiscurly-trim cropped style); butCarelli’s Upper East Side collection, similarly fur-cuffed and collared, opened up for pre-order. The updatedJackie in Bambiwill do numbers.Good tabs to open from
Cristaseya’s just-unlocked temporary online shop(this is how it releases collections): an entry-level-pricedvelvet fringed scarfin deep ocean blue; adiagonal-stripe chunky knitin well-chosen field shades; and astone-colored trenchwith a reverse leather collar. Also…thosewhite riding bootsI’ve been flirting with for seasons are back. Is this the moment I finally buy?Alex Millembodies every season somehow, but perhaps fall most of all, proof of which can be found in a fewkey releases. The newly arrivedSophia coatis the most remarkable of the lot, a double-face wool with double breasted buttons that’s beenhand-finished by artisans who hand-stitch every seam, at the remarkable price of $375. The speckled wool-and-alpaca yarnDonegal sweaterfrom the men’s section is worth consideration, as is thevelvet Prince flat, which I foresee a lot of tip-tapping around Nolita this season.is still underrated for what it is, deserving of itsLa Collectioncomeuppance and on-sight recognition (maybe open a store in NYC? I would shop there…). The Antwerp-based brand released its FW26 collection, titledRohéManiera, and became the preëminent smart, worldly, romantic source in doing so: Deco meets tailoring meets great un-tailoring. Thiscoat! Whoa. Also—sheerembroidered trousersundera slit skirt…great styling concept; speaks the the strengths of the brand as a whole.Lots to discuss on the handbag front:
Nour Hammour’sAmal bagnow comes in aslouchy, shiny ponyhair iteration, in either black or burgundy. For the art lovers,createdEittema selection of bags inspired by the—particularly the mantlepiece carvings in the Walnut Room. Net-A-Porter hasFrick Collectionan exclusiveBottega VenetaBaby Madison bagin a caramel suede intrecciato that’s ideal for fall;introduces theMulberryDelilah family of bags, a relaxed flap style with a removable strap and lock closure that comes in three sizes;LiffnerHigh Season is here, and it’s chock-full of jewel tones, metallics, and lustrous fabrics like satin and calf hair; Absolutely Fabrics hasrestocked its sold-outLA MAMAbag, an oversized carryall for every day; andSt. Agni’stextural woven tote collectionis another option for daily wear.Now, for some shoe news:
Jamie Haller’s Penny Loafer hasa new ponyhair iteration for fall, in a deep wine shade(good news for anyone all-in on purple this season);Jimmy Choocelebrates 30 years with aPearls of Wisdom capsule collectionthat’s heavy on—you guessed it—pearl detailing, from subtle accents toall-over embellished platformsandevening bags;Le Monde Berylenters boot season, including aknee-high kitten-heel Babouche bootin croc-effect brown leather; andRepettocomes full-circle onhigh-vamp ballet flats for women—though the style of the moment is often credited toPhoebe Philo, the French brand introduced it years ago,though only for men.Finally, for the fragrance heads: The luxury collection of scents from
Contrapposto, the beauty house founded by Nick and Casey Axelrod-Welk,is now available at Violet Grey;teams up withTibiforAbelits first-ever eau de parfum—a peppery, green wood with 18 natural ingredients that is aptly described as “chill, modern, and classic”; and, the brand that’s become known for its smokeless incense, is entering the perfume game withBODHAa collection of three debut scents, complete with cool, well-designed bottles.*There’s also:*aConner IvesSS27 trunk show islive on Moda Operandi, on the heels of his superb New York Fashion Week debut at The Grill; a new cotton flannel offering,The Winchester, from perennial shirting favoriteComme Sito elevate fall layering;andVADAteamed upH-O-R-S-Eon a sporty necklacefeaturing a sterling silver coach’s whistle and eyeglass holder, together on a nostalgic ball chain; Brynn Wallner of designedan adorable limited-edition baby teein collaboration with her favorite t-shirt brand,China Girl;Fruity Booty’s fall offering is inspired by dance studio staples, fromballet pink track trouserstoa delicate detached layer top; the second drop of6397’s AW26 collectionis now available via e-comm, featuring an array of violet shades; the AW26 offering fromDima Ladinais also onlineat L’Ensemble, top-tier scouter of convincing, new-to-us brands;TricotxLIÉ STUDIOjoined forces for a limited fall capsule with a tight trio of pieces—a knit polo,a skirt, anda belt; and theModa Operandi ski shopis open, should you have a jaunt to Aspen on your winter agenda.
Spanish shirting brand
Camisas Manolopartnered with Japanese designerSoshi Otsukion a range of that embodies “boom boom.”Otsuki, a 2026 LVMH Prize finalist, finds inspiration in the Armani suits businessmen wore to work in his native Tokyo, which comes through in this range of shirts, complete with silk polka-dot ties that can be flipped to peek out from the inside.Parisian menswear boutique
Beige Habilleurhosted the first "made to order" event for, the brand founded by Andreas Steiner, deepening its commitment to avoiding overproduction, as well as supporting small factories and family-run businesses. Everything from coats to trousers to fleeces are made to order and delivered within 4-6 weeks.RierOur Legacyis keeping it simple for its FW2026 collection theme: “Just Clothes.” Sure, but they’re very good clothes—a casual, collaredleather shirtjacket, awool herringbone car coat, aflannel-like check-pattern shirt, andsome low-rise marled trousersare worthy of heavy rotation status this season and beyond.*There’s also:*a duo of clouty collaborations is now shoppable—writer Jake Woolf partnered withMark the Tailoron one key piece,a sport-luxe merino fleece jacketthat’s available in black and navy; and music video director-slash-tastemakerCole Bennett created a white, wooly pairof cozy-coolBirkenstockBostons that appear to be Yeti-inspired.
Our very own interiors columnist unveiled his latest collection of wallpapers for
, entitled ALTER EGO. The three new styles—BackdropTHE PENTHOUSE,THE BUREAU, andILLUSION DE BOIS—translate architectural materials into wallpaper, evoking the texture and mood of Brutalist brushed steel, olive lacquered tile, and walnut-hued wood grain, respectively.Erstwhile
Tory Burchtextile designer Spencer Malinski has a new collection of five made-to-order ottomans forLove House, all rich in color, pattern, and texture. Made in Italian textile mills and using Samuel & Sons fringe, both velvet and jacquard options are available in a tight edit of shapes and patterns—we’re especially fond of themaximalist floral velvetandArt Deco fan print—priced starting at $5,700.There’s also: Giancarlo Valle and Jane Keltner de Valle, the married couple behind, unveil a new exhibition andStudio Valle de ValleRizzolibookto mark the 10-year anniversary of their interior design practice;Tekla’s newchecked bedding collectionis the linens version of switching over your closet for fall; design studiounveils its first full collection in five years, “Act V: Afsaneh,” which consists of lighting and furniture inspired by mythology; industry-beloved illustrator Angelica Hicks designed a collection of[Apparatus](htt…
