Good morning and welcome to Vittles Restaurants on a Wednesday! Behind the paywall today, Jonathan Nunn reviews an institutional restaurant that is currently serving some of the best desserts you can find in London. To read it all, subscribe to Vittles for £7/month or £59 for the whole year, which gives you access to hundreds of restaurant recommendations from the last six and half years, including the Vittles Restaurants map, the Vittles 99, the central London lunch guides, and the Newcomers Guide To London.
We will be back on Friday with the next episode of the Vittles podcast — a conversation between Adam and Stephen Buranyi all about his long read in Issue 3 of the print magazine.
This summer, I’ve been Redwall-maxxing. I’ve been sitting in monastic courtyards, shaded by abundant foliage and serenaded by birdsong, eating exquisite morsels of food more suited to fictional woodland mice. In May it was sweetened, set cream with the barnyard tang of ewe’s milk, served with iced and fresh mulberries, and laurels of sweet cicely. In July, on my birthday, it was a bracingly tart posset of gooseberry alongside a disc of vanilla shortbread. Earlier this month, it was a cherry, hazelnut and chocolate tart with a thin, friable crust, and a strawberry ice cream that managed to freeze the peak of summer’s fruit in one scoop. There may even have been some elderflower cordial involved.
